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MountainRec Newsletter
POSTCARD
from MtnRec's Himalayan Ledge
28 October 2003
NAMASTE} from the worlds highest mtns and adopted home of
the rigi/alu or potato! Actually I've just arrived back
in Wanaka, but am taking my time to adjust to the absence
of Kathmandu's smells; it's manic vehicles and people
crowded streets and colourful markets. After our 27 day
trek in the Everest region, returning to Kathmandu was a
shock for the first few hours - "Please don't keep
honking your horn!" "Turn down that
radio!" The stink coming out of the 1 1/2 stroke
engines of the 3 wheeled Tuktuk taxis was disgusting and
I felt like stuffing a rigi up their foul exhausts. The
Gov't is talking about banning them which would be a
progressive move.
Maoists: Little progress has been made on the Internal
politic al crises between the outlawed Maoist party and
the Gov't and the outlook appears gloomy and negative for
economic stability, local well-being and tourism. Our
group walked up the Bhote Kosi (river) to the Sherpa town
of Beding without restriction. Our Sirdar was asked for a
donation in the form of a group Rolwaling valley access
fee of US$30 by a Maoist Chief which was paid and
receipted. Other independent and more remote travellers
have had difficulties (more on this later). I am
confident that by choo sing a competent organization such
as Chhuldim Temba"s Mountain Experience and a low
risk trekking region, travel is still safe and enjoyable
in Nepal.
Barnicled on Mt. Barney: My journey started with a
training stop-over in Brisbane where two friends pro
mised me a couple of days of Queensland tranquility. We
started with a one day warm-up scrub bash across the
highest peak on the Q'land/NSW border. John and I used
"crutches" to aid our unstable lower limbs. My
ankle, injured during a 5m. jump from an out crop on the
summit of Treble Cone in the mid-winter had suddenly
swollen, as if fractured, once it was released from
skiboots. The next day I was barnicled into ascent of a
Q'land classic and Michael Groom's 1st mountain climb -
Mt. Barney via the direct SW ridge, a 1,000m scramble.
Rae promised I wouldn't miss my 9.30pm flight to
Kathmandu! The ascent was hot and dry. The views of
surrounding volcanic plugs was spectacular but hazy, but
the summit wild flowers were worth the effort.
The Trek/Climb: Our gr oup of five met in Bankok and
travelled together to Kathmandu to meet our trek staff of
3 Sherpa Guides, 5 kitchen staff and 10 porters at the
Dolokha roadhead. We felt like a 1920's Younghusband Exp.
on the threshold of exploration of the deepest recesse s
of the Himal. By the evening of day 6 we were at Beding
(3693m) under the overhanging headwalls of Gaurishankar
and beginning our altitude acclimatising. A rest day at
Na was followed by a 2 day death march up the Trakarding
and Drolumbau glaciers to t he base of the 5800m Teshi
lap cha La (Pass) and Mt. Parcharmo (6272m) Garlic soup
was prescribed by Nima our Sirdar for Tania's altitude
headaches (and we all got it for breakfast, lunch and
dinner for a week!)
The Mt. Parcharmo climb on day 13 was more of a mental
flog in deep snow, step-plugged by Nima. I cherished our
first distant view of Everest at a photo rest-stop. Four
got to the top after a five hour climb from our Tashi Puk
camp perched on rock ledges under the overhanging
rockcliffs of the towering Tenke Rigi Tau (Autumn
Potatoes Stacked) A rest at Thami completed our first and
the most critical segment of our trip. We were fortunate
to have very strong and willing porters to carry our eqt.
Our attempt on the Nangpa La was halted by lack of time
and a reluctance to tackle more moraine. From Arve we
climbed easily to Renjo Pass (5435m) Everyone was now
acclimatised and fit. We were rewarded with majestic
views of Everest/ Sagamartha/ Chomolungmu as we descended
to Gokyo Resort. On our way to Phortse, Name dropping: I
met Peter Haebler, (1st oxygenless ascent of Everest) on
the gokyo track.
Earlier in the trip we met the youngest (16) person to
climb the peak at his lodge near jarat. He'd climbed the
peak on his 2nd try, but sadly lost most of his fingers
on his 1st attempt. At Phortse, I searched for and found
Nima Rita, our cook from the 1975 Jannu Exp. He's now 62,
in good heart working as a monk and part-time yak herder.
The track to Pangboche was the most spectacular I have
ever been on, with Ama Dablam incredibly close and
dramatic, it's flutings crystal clear in the cold, crisp
Autumn air.
Two more monestries followed by our return to icon
villages of Khumjung, Khunde and Namche Bazar with visits
to Sherpa friends, like Ang Shakey, the daug hter of Da
Tensing who was on the 1924 Younghusband, 1953 British
and 1963 American Everest exp. the '54 Makalu and '55
Kangenjunga Exps. We then descended to Lukla's ski-jump
airport completed out trip. It's been one of the most
successful and enjoyable trips ever, aided by perfect
weather, a fun group and strong staff.
Successful trips fertilize further ideas:
24 Sept/Oct 2004: A moderate/hard challenging trip is one
I mapped out with our Sirdar, Nima, is a trek to the
Hunku valley, east of Everest, accessing the Khumbu
valley via the Ambu Laptsa La (pass) to Chhukung, a climb
of Island Peak, 6200m (Day 17) followed by crossing 2
high and spectacular passes to com plete the trip of 25
days. This is planned for Sept/Oct 2004 and the best of
Nepal's remoteness and Everest's allure.
Logistics Support: These trips have the logistics support
of 2 times Everest Summater, Chhuldim Temba Sherpa (and
MtnRec Guide). Chhuldim and his company Mountain
Experience can also organise private trips for
individuals and small groups to suit personal
requirements. Email me for details. Weight- Saving: Oh,
and by the way, I'm now down to my early 20's weight of
72kgs. and an happy to offer as a bonus a slimming
programme, inspite of all the fantastically prepared
trek/climbing food.
We have considerable interest in our 4 day Mt. French
trek/climbs.
Aoraki/Mt. Cook:}{\fs24 January will see some Mt. Cook
attempts.
Aspiring will be the focus of our attention in Feb.
Join me in Nepal in
September 2004 for our next installment.....
Email: geoff@mountainrec.co.nz
Look for the
new Adidas Mtn Glasses(Evil Eye) & Salomon's latest
adventure running shoes - Raid Race II
Geoff's Mountain Photo Gallery page: http://www.mountainrec.co.nz
If you are interested in custom colour
enlargements for your office wall, email Geoff for cost
details or low res. scans.
Have an exciting autumn and may the high
pressures be with you, Geoff & Beryl
Email: mailto: geoff@mountainrec.co.nz
http://www.mountainrec.co.nz
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