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MountainRec Newsletter

POSTCARD from MtnRec's Himalayan Ledge
28 October 2003
NAMASTE} from the worlds highest mtns and adopted home of the rigi/alu or potato! Actually I've just arrived back in Wanaka, but am taking my time to adjust to the absence of Kathmandu's smells; it's manic vehicles and people crowded streets and colourful markets. After our 27 day trek in the Everest region, returning to Kathmandu was a shock for the first few hours - "Please don't keep honking your horn!" "Turn down that radio!" The stink coming out of the 1 1/2 stroke engines of the 3 wheeled Tuktuk taxis was disgusting and I felt like stuffing a rigi up their foul exhausts. The Gov't is talking about banning them which would be a progressive move.

Maoists: Little progress has been made on the Internal politic al crises between the outlawed Maoist party and the Gov't and the outlook appears gloomy and negative for economic stability, local well-being and tourism. Our group walked up the Bhote Kosi (river) to the Sherpa town of Beding without restriction. Our Sirdar was asked for a donation in the form of a group Rolwaling valley access fee of US$30 by a Maoist Chief which was paid and receipted. Other independent and more remote travellers have had difficulties (more on this later). I am confident that by choo sing a competent organization such as Chhuldim Temba"s Mountain Experience and a low risk trekking region, travel is still safe and enjoyable in Nepal.

Barnicled on Mt. Barney: My journey started with a training stop-over in Brisbane where two friends pro mised me a couple of days of Queensland tranquility. We started with a one day warm-up scrub bash across the highest peak on the Q'land/NSW border. John and I used "crutches" to aid our unstable lower limbs. My ankle, injured during a 5m. jump from an out crop on the summit of Treble Cone in the mid-winter had suddenly swollen, as if fractured, once it was released from skiboots. The next day I was barnicled into ascent of a Q'land classic and Michael Groom's 1st mountain climb - Mt. Barney via the direct SW ridge, a 1,000m scramble. Rae promised I wouldn't miss my 9.30pm flight to Kathmandu! The ascent was hot and dry. The views of surrounding volcanic plugs was spectacular but hazy, but the summit wild flowers were worth the effort.

The Trek/Climb: Our gr oup of five met in Bankok and travelled together to Kathmandu to meet our trek staff of 3 Sherpa Guides, 5 kitchen staff and 10 porters at the Dolokha roadhead. We felt like a 1920's Younghusband Exp. on the threshold of exploration of the deepest recesse s of the Himal. By the evening of day 6 we were at Beding (3693m) under the overhanging headwalls of Gaurishankar and beginning our altitude acclimatising. A rest day at Na was followed by a 2 day death march up the Trakarding and Drolumbau glaciers to t he base of the 5800m Teshi lap cha La (Pass) and Mt. Parcharmo (6272m) Garlic soup was prescribed by Nima our Sirdar for Tania's altitude headaches (and we all got it for breakfast, lunch and dinner for a week!)

The Mt. Parcharmo climb on day 13 was more of a mental flog in deep snow, step-plugged by Nima. I cherished our first distant view of Everest at a photo rest-stop. Four got to the top after a five hour climb from our Tashi Puk camp perched on rock ledges under the overhanging rockcliffs of the towering Tenke Rigi Tau (Autumn Potatoes Stacked) A rest at Thami completed our first and the most critical segment of our trip. We were fortunate to have very strong and willing porters to carry our eqt.

Our attempt on the Nangpa La was halted by lack of time and a reluctance to tackle more moraine. From Arve we climbed easily to Renjo Pass (5435m) Everyone was now acclimatised and fit. We were rewarded with majestic views of Everest/ Sagamartha/ Chomolungmu as we descended to Gokyo Resort. On our way to Phortse, Name dropping: I met Peter Haebler, (1st oxygenless ascent of Everest) on the gokyo track.
Earlier in the trip we met the youngest (16) person to climb the peak at his lodge near jarat. He'd climbed the peak on his 2nd try, but sadly lost most of his fingers on his 1st attempt. At Phortse, I searched for and found Nima Rita, our cook from the 1975 Jannu Exp. He's now 62, in good heart working as a monk and part-time yak herder. The track to Pangboche was the most spectacular I have ever been on, with Ama Dablam incredibly close and dramatic, it's flutings crystal clear in the cold, crisp Autumn air.

Two more monestries followed by our return to icon villages of Khumjung, Khunde and Namche Bazar with visits to Sherpa friends, like Ang Shakey, the daug hter of Da Tensing who was on the 1924 Younghusband, 1953 British and 1963 American Everest exp. the '54 Makalu and '55 Kangenjunga Exps. We then descended to Lukla's ski-jump airport completed out trip. It's been one of the most successful and enjoyable trips ever, aided by perfect weather, a fun group and strong staff.

Successful trips fertilize further ideas:
24 Sept/Oct 2004: A moderate/hard challenging trip is one I mapped out with our Sirdar, Nima, is a trek to the Hunku valley, east of Everest, accessing the Khumbu valley via the Ambu Laptsa La (pass) to Chhukung, a climb of Island Peak, 6200m (Day 17) followed by crossing 2 high and spectacular passes to com plete the trip of 25 days. This is planned for Sept/Oct 2004 and the best of Nepal's remoteness and Everest's allure.

Logistics Support: These trips have the logistics support of 2 times Everest Summater, Chhuldim Temba Sherpa (and MtnRec Guide). Chhuldim and his company Mountain Experience can also organise private trips for individuals and small groups to suit personal requirements. Email me for details. Weight- Saving: Oh, and by the way, I'm now down to my early 20's weight of 72kgs. and an happy to offer as a bonus a slimming programme, inspite of all the fantastically prepared trek/climbing food.

We have considerable interest in our 4 day Mt. French trek/climbs.
Aoraki/Mt. Cook:}{\fs24 January will see some Mt. Cook attempts.
Aspiring will be the focus of our attention in Feb.

Join me in Nepal in September 2004 for our next installment.....
Email: geoff@mountainrec.co.nz

Look for the new Adidas Mtn Glasses(Evil Eye) & Salomon's latest adventure running shoes - Raid Race II

Geoff's Mountain Photo Gallery page: http://www.mountainrec.co.nz

If you are interested in custom colour enlargements for your office wall, email Geoff for cost details or low res. scans.

Have an exciting autumn and may the high pressures be with you, Geoff & Beryl
Email: mailto: geoff@mountainrec.co.nz http://www.mountainrec.co.nz

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