Mt. Aspiring Climbs
Mt Aspiring-(3028 metres) - an icon amongst New Zealand's peaks.
Mt. Aspiring/Tititea:: Hidden from general view and surrounded by three spectacular glaciers the classical "horn" of Mt Aspiring dominates the sky-scape from the Hollyford to the Haast. The Bonar, the Therma and the Volta glaciers provide limitless mountain terrain. Most of the snow flows westward, hiding it's towering, awe-inspiring faces from general view....
Walking access is via the West Matukituki Valley. The valley floor tramping is easy and the views improve from spectacular to awe inspiring at the valley head. Mountain Recreation, School of Mountaineering provides accommodation from it's Shovel Flat base. Two new NZ Alpine Club huts, French Ridge (1465metres-20 persons) and Colin Todd Hut(1725metres-12 persons) provide alpine shelter and a climbing base. Accessing Colin Todd hut requires a crossing of the Bonar Glacier with rope, crampons and ice axe.
A steep, rough track leads to French Ridge Hut( elev. gain 900m - 2 1/2hrs+) The upper valley and access to Colin Todd Hut is a steady and arduous climb. The track deteriorates towards the end of the forest opening up into a bouldered meadow and 1300 metre walls or rock and ice, streaming waterfalls and regular snow avalanches. Rock slabs are climbed towards Hector Col and finally long snow slopes to Bevan Col and a fantastic view of Aspiring
TRAVEL TIMES: Raspberry Flat road-head to Aspiring Hut - 2 hours; to Shovel Flat 3 hours; to Pearl Flat 3 1/2 hrs. Pearl Flat:- To French Ridge Hut-2 1/2hrs+; to Colin Todd Hut-7hrs.French Ridge Hut to Colin Todd Hut - 5 hrs (alpine)
THE CLIMB: A 10 -13hr. climb from Colin Todd hut or a bivouac on the Bonar Glacier. A 16hr day from French Ridge Hut. It involves roped glacier travel to the base of the peak. A choice of routes includes: The 10 pitch, 50deg. snow ramp to the shoulder or the rock Buttress route. From the Shoulder the climb is less steep and follows the NW Ridge to the Summit. The South West Ridge - a serious but classic 14 pitch climb with a spectacular steep 4 pitch finish to the summit. For further details see: mountain essays
FITNESS: IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU ARE IN STRONG PHYSICAL FITNESS WITH A HIGH ENDURANCE CAPACITY TO ENSURE A SATISFYING EXPEDITION.
Training: Nothing beats a 3-5 day hill tramp with a 15-20kg pack. Long uphill mtn bikes are also recommended to build endurance for 1,000-1500m on Aspiring. Details of experience & fitness are required with booking.
MOUNTAIN RECREATION, EQT LIST www.mountainrec.co.nz
Equipment is basically designed to enhance our experience and protect us from harsh climates. Too often people think that the quantity of gear and personal pleasure are directly proportional. Some have the notion that equipment buys safety. Safety has more to do with experience and risk taking. Over-equipping is like siege climbing and the cutting of "bucket" steps; boring, laborious and totally detracting from the freedom of the sport. Select your clothing and equipment carefully, according to personal experience. We have listed the essential items based on our experience. Lay your gear out 2 weeks before the trip and consider every item carefully for function and necessity.
Maps: Mt Aspiring region NZMS 273 1:150000 & NZAC Mt. Aspiring Guidebook,
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